11 Genius Wall Painting Solutions to Stop Paint from Peeling You Need Right Now

11 Genius Wall Painting Solutions to Stop Paint from Peeling You Need Right Now

There’s nothing quite as disheartening as investing your time, effort, and money into a fresh coat of paint, only to see it start to bubble, crack, and peel away from your walls. Peeling paint is more than just an eyesore; it’s a frustrating problem that signals an underlying issue preventing your paint from adhering properly. Ignoring it or simply painting over the flakes will only lead to a recurring cycle of disappointment.

But don’t throw in the towel (or your paintbrush) just yet! Understanding why paint peels is the first step to conquering it. From moisture intrusion to improper surface preparation, various culprits can be at play. The good news is that with the right knowledge and techniques, you can effectively stop paint from peeling and ensure your next paint job is a lasting success. We’ve compiled 11 genius wall painting solutions that tackle the root causes of peeling paint, helping you achieve a beautiful, durable finish that stays put. Get ready to say goodbye to peeling woes and hello to flawless, long-lasting walls!

Why Does Paint Peel? Unmasking the Culprits

Before we dive into the solutions, it’s crucial to understand the common reasons behind peeling paint. Identifying the cause will help you choose the most effective fix:

• Moisture: This is the number one enemy of paint adhesion. Excess moisture from leaks, high humidity (common in bathrooms and kitchens), condensation, or dampness seeping through basement walls can push paint away from the surface.
• Poor Surface Preparation: Painting over dirty, greasy, dusty, or glossy surfaces without proper cleaning and priming is a recipe for peeling. The paint simply can’t get a good grip.
• Skipping Primer: Primer is essential for creating a uniform, adherent base for your topcoat, especially on new drywall, porous surfaces, stained areas, or when making significant color changes.
• Incompatible Paint Layers: Applying latex (water-based) paint directly over an old oil-based paint without proper priming can lead to poor adhesion and peeling.
• Painting on Damp Surfaces: If the wall itself is damp when painted, the trapped moisture will eventually try to escape, pushing the paint off.
• Low-Quality Paint or Primer: Cheap paints and primers may have inferior adhesion properties, making them more prone to failure.
• Age of Paint Job: Even well-applied paint will eventually degrade over many years, especially in harsh conditions.
• Extreme Temperatures or Humidity During Application: Painting in conditions that are too hot, too cold, or too humid can interfere with proper paint curing and adhesion.
• Too Many Layers: Excessive layers of old paint can become too heavy and inflexible, leading to cracking and peeling.
• Underlying Surface Issues: Problems with the drywall, plaster, or previous paint layers (like uncured joint compound) can affect the new paint’s adhesion.

Now, let’s get to the solutions that will put an end to your peeling paint nightmares.

11 Genius Solutions to Stop Paint Peeling in Its Tracks

Armed with an understanding of the causes, here are 11 effective strategies to prevent and fix peeling paint:

1. The “Moisture Detective & Eradication” Mission: Address the Root Cause First

The Problem: You notice paint peeling, blistering, or bubbling, particularly in areas prone to dampness like bathrooms, kitchens, basements, or near windows and ceilings. This is a strong indicator of a moisture issue.

The Solution: Before any paint repair, you must identify and eliminate the source of the moisture.

• Leak Detection: Inspect for plumbing leaks, roof leaks, leaking gutters, or cracks in exterior walls that might be allowing water to seep in. Repair any leaks promptly.
• Improve Ventilation: In high-humidity areas like bathrooms and kitchens, ensure you have adequate ventilation. Install or upgrade exhaust fans and use them consistently during and after activities that generate steam or moisture. Dehumidifiers can also be beneficial in basements or generally damp rooms.
• Address Condensation: Improve insulation on cold walls or pipes where condensation forms. Ensure proper airflow.
• Exterior Grading: For basement dampness, ensure the ground outside slopes away from your foundation to prevent water pooling.
• Waterproof Sealers (Interior & Exterior): For basement walls or masonry that wicks moisture, consider applying a quality waterproof sealer after the wall has thoroughly dried out and any efflorescence (white, powdery deposits) has been removed.

Why It Works:

If you don’t stop the moisture at its source, any new paint job, no matter how well prepared, will eventually fail and peel again. Addressing the underlying dampness is the most critical step for a long-lasting fix.

Pro-Tip: Use a moisture meter to check the moisture content of the wall material before proceeding with repairs and painting. It should be within acceptable limits (typically below 15-20% for drywall, but check specific paint/primer recommendations).

2. The “Thorough Scrape, Sand & Clean” Regimen: Creating a Sound Surface

The Problem: Loose, flaking, or cracked paint provides an unstable foundation for new paint. Painting directly over these compromised areas will inevitably lead to the new paint peeling off along with the old.

The Solution: Meticulously remove all loose and peeling paint and create a smooth, sound surface.

• Scrape Away Loose Paint: Use a putty knife, paint scraper (a 5-in-1 tool is excellent for this), or a wire brush to carefully remove all flaking, blistering, and peeling paint. Work until you reach a firmly adhered edge. Be gentle on drywall to avoid gouging it.
• Sand for Smooth Transitions: After scraping, sand the edges of the remaining paint smooth to create a feathered transition between the painted and unpainted areas. This prevents the old paint edges from showing through your new coat. Use medium-grit sandpaper (80-120 grit) followed by fine-grit sandpaper (150-220 grit).
• Sand Entire Surface (if needed): If the remaining paint is glossy or the surface is generally uneven, a light sanding of the entire area will help with adhesion and smoothness.
• Clean Thoroughly: This is non-negotiable. After scraping and sanding, clean the walls meticulously to remove all dust, dirt, grease, and grime. Use a solution of TSP (trisodium phosphate) substitute or a good household degreasing cleaner. Rinse with clean water if required by the cleaner and allow the wall to dry completely. Vacuuming the walls with a brush attachment can also help remove fine dust.

Why It Works:

This process removes the unstable, failing paint and creates a clean, slightly abraded surface to which new primer and paint can properly adhere. Skipping this step is one of the most common reasons for continued peeling.

Pro-Tip: Wear appropriate safety gear during scraping and sanding: a dust mask or respirator (especially for older paint, which may contain lead – see Solution #11), safety glasses, and gloves.

3. The “Prime with a Problem-Solving Primer” Power Move: Sealing and Bonding

The Problem: After scraping and cleaning, the wall surface might be porous, stained, chalky, or you might be dealing with stubborn areas where paint has consistently peeled. You need a product that can seal these issues and provide a superior bond for your topcoat.

The Solution: Use a high-quality primer specifically designed to address problem surfaces and promote adhesion.

• Stain-Blocking Primers: If moisture was an issue, water stains might be present. A stain-blocking primer (oil-based or shellac-based are often best for severe stains, though advanced water-based stain blockers exist) will prevent these from bleeding through your new paint.
• Peel-Stopping / Bonding Primers: These primers are specifically formulated to help lock down old paint edges and improve the adhesion of new paint to difficult or previously problematic surfaces. They penetrate and help to bind down minor chalkiness or flaking that might remain even after good scraping. Examples include Zinsser Peel Stop Triple Thick Binding Primer or similar products.
• Oil-Based Primers (for certain situations): If you suspect the previous layer was oil-based paint and you’re switching to latex, an oil-based primer or a specialized bonding primer designed for this transition is crucial to prevent peeling.
• Apply Primer Uniformly: Apply the primer according to the manufacturer’s instructions, ensuring even coverage. Allow it to dry completely before painting.

Why It Works:

Primer acts as an intermediary layer that seals the substrate, blocks stains, and provides a consistent, grippy surface for the topcoat. Problem-solving primers have enhanced properties to deal with issues like previous peeling, chalking, or difficult-to-adhere-to surfaces, significantly reducing the likelihood of future peeling.

Pro-Tip: Don’t skimp on primer quality. A good primer is a critical investment for a long-lasting paint job, especially when dealing with walls that have a history of peeling.

4. The “Identify & Address Incompatible Paint Layers” Strategy: Oil vs. Latex Showdown

The Problem: You’re painting a surface that was previously painted years ago, and you’re unsure what type of paint was used. Applying latex (water-based) paint directly over an old, unprepared oil-based (alkyd) paint surface is a classic cause of poor adhesion and eventual peeling.

The Solution: Determine if the old paint is oil-based and prepare accordingly.

• The Denatured Alcohol Test: Soak a cotton ball or white rag in denatured alcohol and rub a small, inconspicuous area of the painted surface. If paint color comes off onto the cotton ball/rag, it’s likely latex. If no paint comes off (or only a slight chalky residue from very old oil paint), it’s likely oil-based.
• If the Old Paint is Oil-Based (and you want to use latex topcoat):
  1. Clean Thoroughly: Clean the oil-based surface meticulously to remove any grease, grime, or gloss.
  2. Sand Lightly: Lightly sand the entire surface with fine-grit sandpaper (150-180 grit) to degloss it and create a slight “tooth” for the primer to grip.
  3. Wipe Away Dust: Remove all sanding dust.
  4. Apply a Bonding Primer: Use a high-quality bonding primer specifically designed to adhere to glossy surfaces and bridge the gap between oil-based and latex paints. Some oil-based primers can also work for this transition if you intend to topcoat with latex. Allow the primer to cure fully as per instructions.
  5. You can then apply your latex topcoat.

Why It Works:

Oil-based paints create a smooth, less porous surface that latex paint struggles to adhere to directly. A bonding primer creates the necessary bridge, ensuring the new latex paint can form a strong, durable bond.

Pro-Tip: If you’re unsure, it’s always safest to assume older paint (especially in homes built before the 1980s) might be oil-based and take the necessary priming precautions.

5. The “Allow Adequate Drying Time” Patience Principle: Between Cleaning, Priming, and Coats

The Problem: Rushing the painting process by applying primer or paint before the underlying surface or previous coat is fully dry can trap moisture or solvents, leading to blisters, bubbles, and eventual peeling.

The Solution: Exercise patience and strictly adhere to recommended drying times.

• After Cleaning: Ensure the wall is completely dry after washing before you apply primer or paint. This can take several hours or even overnight, depending on humidity and temperature.
• Between Primer and First Coat: Allow the primer to dry and cure fully according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This is often longer than just being “dry to the touch.” Curing allows the primer to develop its full adhesion properties.
• Between Coats of Paint: Respect the recoat times specified on the paint can. Applying a second coat too soon can re-wet the first coat, interfering with proper curing and adhesion.
• Consider Environmental Conditions: High humidity and low temperatures will significantly extend drying and curing times. Factor this into your project timeline.

Why It Works:

Proper drying and curing allow each layer (substrate, primer, paint coats) to achieve its optimal hardness and adhesion. Trapped moisture or solvents from underlying wet layers will try to escape, pushing off subsequent layers.

Pro-Tip: When in doubt, wait longer. It’s better to err on the side of caution and allow extra drying time, especially in less-than-ideal environmental conditions. Good ventilation (without creating drafts directly on wet paint) can aid drying.

6. The “Choose High-Quality, Appropriate Paint” Investment: Don’t Skimp on Your Topcoat

The Problem: Using cheap, low-quality paint can lead to a host of problems, including poor coverage, lack of durability, and, yes, a higher likelihood of peeling, especially in challenging environments.

The Solution: Invest in a good-quality paint that is appropriate for the specific area you are painting.

• Reputable Brands: Opt for paints from well-known, reputable manufacturers known for their quality formulations.
• Specific Formulations:
  • Bathroom & Kitchen Paints: These are specifically formulated with mildewcides and increased durability to withstand high humidity and frequent cleaning.
  • Exterior Paints: Designed to handle temperature fluctuations, UV exposure, and moisture. Never use interior paint outdoors.
  • Washable/Scrubbable Finishes: For high-traffic areas, choose paints with higher durability (e.g., eggshell, satin, or specialized mattes designed for washability).
• 100% Acrylic Latex: For most interior applications, high-quality 100% acrylic latex paints offer excellent adhesion, flexibility, and durability, making them less prone to cracking and peeling than older vinyl-acrylic formulas.

Why It Works:

Quality paints contain better resins (binders), pigments, and additives. These result in a paint film that adheres better, is more flexible (to accommodate minor surface movements), resists moisture more effectively, and generally lasts longer.

Pro-Tip: While premium paints cost more upfront, they often save you money in the long run by providing better coverage (requiring fewer coats) and lasting longer, reducing the frequency of repainting.

7. The “Apply Thin, Even Coats” Technique: Avoid Overloading

The Problem: Applying paint too thickly in an attempt to get the job done faster or cover in one coat can lead to several issues, including sagging, running, slow drying, and poor adhesion, all of which can contribute to eventual peeling.

The Solution: Apply multiple thin, even coats rather than one or two thick coats.

• Proper Roller Loading: Don’t overload your roller. Dip it into the paint tray and roll it back and forth on the textured ramp to distribute paint evenly and remove excess.
• Consistent Application: Apply the paint in smooth, overlapping strokes, maintaining consistent pressure.
• Follow Recommended Spread Rate: Paint cans usually specify a recommended spread rate (square feet per gallon). Trying to stretch paint too thin or lay it on too thick can compromise performance.
• Two Thin Coats are Usually Best: For most colors and situations, two well-applied thin coats will provide better coverage, a more uniform appearance, and superior adhesion compared to one thick coat.

Why It Works:

Thin coats dry and cure more evenly and thoroughly. Thick coats can trap solvents or moisture near the substrate, and the weight and internal stresses of a thick, uncured film can lead to adhesion failure.

Pro-Tip: If you see runs or sags as you’re painting, you’re likely applying the paint too heavily. Lightly brush or roll them out immediately while the paint is still wet.

8. The “Mind the Environmental Conditions” Rule: Temperature and Humidity Matter

The Problem: Painting when it’s too hot, too cold, too humid, or in direct, intense sunlight can significantly impact how the paint dries, cures, and adheres, often leading to premature failure like peeling or blistering.

The Solution: Pay close attention to the environmental conditions before and during your painting project.

• Read the Paint Can Label: Manufacturers specify ideal temperature and humidity ranges for application and drying (typically between 50°F/10°C and 90°F/32°C, with humidity below 85%). Avoid painting if conditions are outside these ranges.
• Avoid Extreme Heat & Direct Sunlight: Hot temperatures or direct sun can cause paint to dry too quickly on the surface, trapping solvents underneath and leading to poor adhesion or blistering.
• Avoid Extreme Cold: Cold temperatures slow down the drying and curing process significantly. Paint applied in the cold may not form a proper film or adhere well.
• High Humidity Issues: High humidity also slows drying and can lead to surfactant leaching (oily or streaky marks) or a weaker paint film.
• Ensure Good Ventilation (but not strong drafts): Proper air circulation helps with drying, but avoid strong drafts directly on the wet paint, as this can also cause it to dry too quickly on the surface.

Why It Works:

Paint is a chemical product, and its curing process (film formation) is highly dependent on environmental conditions. Ideal conditions allow the paint to coalesce and bond to the surface as intended by its formulation.

Pro-Tip: If painting exteriors, check the weather forecast. Don’t paint if rain is expected within the paint’s initial curing window, or if temperatures are predicted to drop significantly overnight.

9. The “Avoid Over-Sanding Joint Compound” Caution: Maintain Surface Integrity

The Problem: When finishing new drywall or patching, if the joint compound is over-sanded, the paper facing of the drywall can become fuzzy or damaged. This “raised grain” provides a weak, unstable surface for paint adhesion.

The Solution: Sand joint compound carefully and use a primer designed for new drywall.

• Use Appropriate Grit Sandpaper: Start with 120-150 grit for initial sanding and finish with 180-220 grit for a smooth finish. Avoid overly coarse grits on the final sand.
• Don’t Oversand: Sand just enough to smooth the compound and feather the edges. Stop if you notice the drywall paper becoming fuzzy.
• Use a Drywall Primer/Sealer: After sanding and cleaning, always use a primer specifically designed for new drywall (often a PVA primer). This seals the porous joint compound and the drywall paper, creating a uniform surface for the paint and preventing the paint from raising the grain of any slightly abraded paper.

Why It Works:

A drywall primer/sealer conditions the surface, equalizing the porosity between the joint compound and the drywall paper. This prevents the topcoat from sinking in unevenly and ensures better adhesion, reducing the risk of peeling from a compromised paper surface.

Pro-Tip: If you do accidentally fuzz up the drywall paper, a very light application of a shellac-based primer or a specialized problem-surface sealer over just the fuzzy spot before your main drywall primer can sometimes help lock down the fibers. Allow it to dry completely.

10. The “Gentle Cleaning for Painted Walls” Maintenance: Preserve the Paint Film

The Problem: While not a direct cause of initial peeling, harsh, abrasive cleaning methods or overly aggressive scrubbing on a painted surface can damage the paint film over time, making it more susceptible to wear, moisture penetration, and eventual peeling, especially at the edges of the scrubbed area.

The Solution: Clean painted walls gently using appropriate methods and cleaners.

• Use Soft Sponges or Cloths: Avoid abrasive scouring pads or steel wool.
• Mild Detergents: For general cleaning, use a mild solution of dish soap and water, or cleaners specifically formulated for painted surfaces.
• Test an Inconspicuous Area First: Before cleaning a large area, test your cleaning solution and technique in a hidden spot to ensure it doesn’t damage the paint finish.
• Blot, Don’t Rub Vigorously (especially on flat/matte finishes): Flat and matte paints are less resistant to scrubbing. Gently blot or wipe. For more durable finishes like eggshell or satin, you can use slightly more pressure, but still avoid being overly aggressive.
• Rinse if Necessary: If using a detergent, lightly rinse the wall with a clean, damp cloth to remove any residue.

Why It Works:

Gentle cleaning preserves the integrity of the paint film. Damaging the film through harsh cleaning can create micro-abrasions or weak spots where moisture can eventually penetrate or where the paint’s bond to the underlying layer is compromised.

Pro-Tip: For stubborn marks, try a magic eraser very gently, again testing in an inconspicuous area first, as it can be subtly abrasive on some finishes. Choosing a more washable paint finish (like a quality eggshell or satin, or a scrubbable matte) for high-traffic or mess-prone areas can reduce the need for aggressive cleaning.

11. The “Lead Paint Safety Precautions” Imperative: Health First, Then Aesthetics

The Problem: If your home was built before 1978, there’s a high probability that some of the existing paint layers contain lead. Improperly disturbing lead-based paint (by scraping, sanding, or heat gun removal) can create hazardous lead dust, which is a serious health risk, especially for children and pregnant women. Peeling lead paint is already a hazard.

The Solution: If you suspect lead paint, take extreme caution and follow lead-safe work practices.

• Test for Lead: Use an EPA-recognized lead test kit to check the paint layers for lead before disturbing them.
• If Lead is Present:
  • Do NOT dry scrape or sand without proper containment and respiratory protection. This creates copious amounts of lead dust.
  • Consider Professional Abatement: For extensive peeling or large areas of lead paint, hiring a certified lead abatement professional is the safest option.
  • Lead-Safe DIY Practices (if permissible and you’re trained): This involves meticulous containment (plastic sheeting, sealing off vents), using HEPA vacuums, wet sanding/scraping techniques to minimize dust, wearing appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) including a P100 or N100 respirator, and careful cleanup and disposal.
  • Encapsulation: In some cases, instead of removal, lead paint can be encapsulated with a special encapsulant coating that seals it in. This is often a safer approach than full removal for DIYers.
• Local Regulations: Be aware of and follow all local and national regulations regarding lead paint handling and disposal.

Why It Works (for safety and long-term stability):

Addressing lead paint safely is paramount. Once lead paint is properly removed or encapsulated, you can then prepare the surface correctly for new, non-leaded primer and paint, which will then have a much better chance of adhering without the complications of an unstable leaded layer. Encapsulants are designed to bond well to prepared lead paint and provide a stable base.

Pro-Tip: Never use a heat gun above 1100°F (593°C) on lead paint, as this can vaporize the lead, creating highly toxic fumes. Information on lead-safe practices is available from the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) or your local health department.

Achieve a Peel-Free Finish: Your Walls Deserve It

Peeling paint is a common frustration, but it’s not an insurmountable one. By playing detective to identify the underlying cause and diligently applying the appropriate solutions – from crucial moisture control and meticulous surface preparation to choosing the right materials and techniques – you can conquer peeling paint and ensure your walls look beautiful and stay that way for years to come.

Don’t let the fear of peeling paint deter you from transforming your space. Armed with these 11 genius solutions, you have the power to create a durable, flawless, and peel-free paint job that you can be proud of. Happy painting!

Frequently Asked Questions

1. Q: Can I just paint over peeling paint if it’s only a small area?A: No, this is generally not recommended. Painting over peeling paint without removing the loose flakes and addressing the underlying cause will result in the new paint quickly peeling off along with the old, unstable layer. You must scrape away all loose paint, sand the edges smooth, clean, and prime the area properly before repainting (Solution #2 & #3).
2. Q: What is the best primer to use to prevent paint from peeling?A: The “best” primer depends on the specific situation.
   • For general good adhesion and sealing: A high-quality acrylic multi-purpose primer.
   • For areas with previous peeling or chalky surfaces: A “peel-stopping” or bonding primer (e.g., Zinsser Peel Stop).
   • Over stains or for moisture-prone areas: A stain-blocking primer (oil-based or advanced water-based).
   • When painting latex over old oil-based paint: A dedicated bonding primer. Always choose a quality product and apply it to a properly prepared surface.
3. Q: My bathroom paint keeps peeling near the shower. What can I do?A: This is a classic moisture problem.
   1. Improve Ventilation (Critical): Install or upgrade your exhaust fan and run it during and for at least 20-30 minutes after every shower (Solution #1).
   2. Scrape, Sand, Clean: Remove all peeling paint and any mildew (use a mildew cleaner).
   3. Prime: Use a high-quality stain-blocking, moisture-resistant primer.
   4. Paint: Use a paint specifically designed for bathrooms and high-humidity areas, often labeled “Kitchen & Bath” paint, which usually has a higher sheen (like satin or semi-gloss) and mildewcides. Ensure the walls are completely dry before painting.
4. Q: How can I tell if moisture is the cause of my peeling paint?A: Signs include:
   • Peeling is occurring in bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, basements, or near windows/doors.
   • Paint is blistering or bubbling before it peels.
   • You see water stains, mold, or mildew on or near the peeling area.
   • The underlying wall surface feels damp or cool to the touch.
   • Peeling is worse after periods of high humidity or rain. (Solution #1)
5. Q: Why is my new paint job already peeling after only a few months?A: This almost always points to inadequate surface preparation or an underlying issue that wasn’t addressed. Common culprits include:
   • Painting over a dirty, greasy, or glossy surface.
   • Skipping primer, especially on new drywall or when making drastic color changes.
   • Trapped moisture in the wall or applying paint to a damp surface.
   • Incompatibility between paint layers (e.g., latex over unprimed oil).
   • Painting in poor environmental conditions (too hot, cold, or humid).
6. Q: How long should I wait for a wall to dry after cleaning or a leak before painting?A: The wall must be completely dry. This can take anywhere from several hours to several days, depending on the extent of the wetness, the wall material, humidity, and airflow. Using fans or a dehumidifier can help speed up the process. A moisture meter is the most accurate way to check if the wall is dry enough to paint (Solution #1 & #5).
7. Q: Is it better to use oil-based or latex paint to prevent peeling?A: Modern high-quality 100% acrylic latex paints (Solution #6) generally offer excellent adhesion, flexibility, and breathability, making them very resistant to peeling on properly prepared interior surfaces. Oil-based paints cure to a harder, less flexible film and can become brittle and prone to cracking/peeling over time, especially with temperature fluctuations. For most interior applications, latex is preferred. The key is proper surface preparation and using the right type of primer and paint for the job, rather than just oil vs. latex.
8. Q: My exterior house paint is peeling. Are the solutions different?A: While many principles are the same (moisture control, thorough prep, quality materials), exterior peeling has additional considerations:
   • Sun/UV Exposure: Causes paint to degrade and become brittle.
   • Temperature Fluctuations: Cause expansion and contraction of siding, stressing the paint film.
   • More Robust Moisture Sources: Driving rain, improper flashing, failed caulking. Solutions often involve more intensive scraping/sanding, potentially power washing (carefully), addressing structural and sealing issues (caulking, flashing), and using high-quality exterior-specific primers and paints designed to withstand these harsher conditions. Lead paint is also more common in older exterior paint.
9. Q: What if I’ve scraped and sanded, but the old paint edge is still slightly visible after priming?A: This means the edge wasn’t feathered enough during sanding. You have a couple of options:
   1. Apply another thin coat of primer, specifically trying to build it up slightly at the edge to level it out. Sand very lightly once dry.
   2. Apply a thin skim coat of joint compound or spackling over the edge, feathering it out smoothly. Let dry, sand gently, and then re-prime that area before painting. This will give the smoothest transition. (Related to Solution #2)